Gardening Plant

Growing Sunflower for Flowers and Seeds

Sunflowers (Helianthus spp.) or Helianthus as the correct plant name is an annual plant which derives their name from two Greek words, “helios” means the sun, and “anthos” means flower, hence, the name sunflower. They belong to the Asteraceae family with a unique characteristics of an aggregate of two different types of flowers, namely ray and disk flowers, which look like a single blossom. They are a native to the American continents.

Before this was domesticated, sunflowers were spread throughout the North and Central American continents growing wild. The use of sunflower for human consumption is known as early as the 29th century.

The natives use sunflowers for ornamental and ceremonial use, as well as for food and flavoring. The seeds were prepared by grinding them to make flour, and sometimes mixed with beans, squash and corn to make a meal. Usually they pressed the seeds for oil and cracked open for the kernels.

Another use of sunflower seeds was to produce a purple dye used for decoration, face and body painting and on cloth. They also made oil out of sunflower seeds for both skin and hair care, and even the dried plant stalks were used as materials to construct building.

Sunflowers consists of many types. Basically, they are separated by their sizes, such as giant type which grows to a height of over ten feet and miniature type that grows from two to four feet tall. The miniature type is gaining popularity in Asia as border plants.

The mid-sized type are planted by gardeners to attract birds and some insects for pollination to other companion crops.

Methods to grow sunflower

Soil requirements. Sunflowers thrives best with a soil rich in organic materials especially if you’re growing the giant type. Being a deep rooted plant, they don’t withstand with a sandy soil since they’re easily uprooted by strong wind.

Sunlight. To get good flower formation, you should plant them in an open field with sufficient sunlight distribution during the day. They may tolerate in shaded areas, however, there should be at least 4 – 6 hours of sunlight a day.

Planting. The seeds should be sown directly to the field with the following spacing requirements: Giant type, 3 feet apart in rows 3-4 feet apart; Intermediate type, 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart; and Miniature type, 1 foot apart in rows 3 feet apart.

Fertilizer needs. To promote a bigger size flowers, you should apply Phosphorous and Potassium fertilizers before the start of flowering stage.

Pest and disease control. Being a hardy plant, sunflowers have no serious problem with insect pests. Only the birds and squirrels are sometimes the one that invades the flowers. Likewise, no disease has been found attacking sunflowers.

Harvesting. For seed purposes, sunflowers are ready for harvest 80 -120 days after planting or sowing. There are also some specific time of maturity for variety you bought based on the labels specifications.
The exact time for the seeds to be harvested is when the flower starts to die back and all the petals have fallen down.

Cut the dried heads, leaving a few inches of the stalk, tie the stalks together then hang them in a shaded and ventilated space. Once they’re dried after a month, extract the seeds by rubbing the two loosed heads together to let the seeds comes out.

For flower use as craft projects and flower arrangements and bouquets, simply cut the flowers before they dried out and dry them for a couple of weeks.

Happy gardening!

For the most part orchids live in the shade of the tree canopy in their natural state. While growing, they need an equivalent amount of light as they would get in their natural home. If an orchid gets too much light during the summer, it will damage the plant. The foliage of the plant will begin to turn yellow. If the orchid plant gets too much direct sun it will burn the leaves and cause black spots where the leaf cells break down from the exposure to the sun. Dark green and limp leaves is a sign that the orchid is not getting enough light. So for proper orchid care you need to provide just enough light for the orchid to produce mid-green color foliage.

In the winter, orchids can take all of the dappled light that is available, except for phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum orchids. Orchids grown indoors may have less light available during winter months. Growing lights are seldom used in green houses but may be necessary in order to provide enough light for indoor orchids. As spring approaches care needs to be taken with regards to light. The intensity and duration of light are increasing daily and can not only burn the orchid plant, but also over heat it.

In the summer shaded light as well as ventilation or moving air is necessary. The plant will be warmer and the movement of air relieves the heat. You want to try to keep from the orchid from getting any direct sun in the summer.

Light as well as temperature are the main causes for a large and healthy orchid not to bloom in the right season. As long as an orchid’s environment is correct it will bloom. If light and temperature are carefully monitored you can produce flowers on all of your orchids in the correct season. It is advantageous to know exactly what the best environment is for each of your orchids is in order to be successful in flowering them. Most amateur enthusiast has one or two of each plant and grows them all in the same place. Sometimes all it takes to get an orchid plant to bloom is to move it a little closer to the light so it gets more light or hang it or place it a little higher in order to cool it down at night.

One of the key factors of proper orchid care is consistently providing the right amount of light for your orchid. Monitor your orchids continually until you determine the optimal amount for each season. After a while you will be able to tell when and where to move them in order to get the best results.

Bonsai Soil Selection

The soil you choose for your potted bonsai tree will provide it with nutrients, retain water, and play an important part in its overall health. You will need to find the right soil mix if you want your tree to thrive.

Both organic and inorganic soil mixes are available to bonsai tree growers. Organic soil mixes are comprised of dead leaves, peat, bark and other plant parts. Inorganic mixes are made from substances such as volcanic lava and clay. Soil mixes with a high inorganic content can prove better for bonsai health since they provide better drainage and more oxygen to the plant. Soils with a high organic content tend to retain too much water, and their particles break down over time, allowing less air to reach the plant. Good bonsai soil should have a mix of different sized particles, such as grit, sand, and peat, and hold enough water to hydrate the plant between each watering, while allowing for appropriate drainage.

Special inorganic soils for bonsai include Akadama, a porous Japanese baked clay that, mixed with sand and grit, becomes the perfect medium in which to grow pines and other bonsai. You can find this at a bonsai nursery. Seramis is another type of fired clay that is easier to find and cheaper than Akadama and can be mixed with peat or bark. It promotes root growth and is stronger than Japanese clay.

Different species require different water, nutrients, and soil. Coniferous bonsai such as junipers and pines need less moisture, so they need a soil that retains less water. Tropical flowering plants, conversely, will often need more water, and therefore require a soil that retains water more effectively. Check with an expert at a bonsai nursery for a soil recommendation for your particular bonsai species.

Bonsai Pot Selection

The pot in which you place your bonsai should complement the shape and style of the tree. The size, color, and design of the container should all be taken into consideration. While you can train your bonsai in an informal tray or box, a fully shaped tree should be displayed in a formal bonsai container. These are usually ceramic stoneware that can be glazed or unglazed in a variety of colors and sizes. All bonsai pots should have drainage holes in the bottom to let out excess water.

Your bonsai pot should be resistant to both heat and cold. Most stoneware pots are fired to withstand temperature changes. If you know your bonsai will be located outdoors in an extreme climate, it’s best to select an unglazed pot. If your bonsai will reside exclusively indoors, you can use a porcelain pot, which can lend an elegant look to a flowering tree.

Color is an important consideration. Most bonsai gardeners choose unglazed, rustic containers in earth tones for outdoor bonsai such as evergreens and pines, while flowering or fruit-bearing trees such as brush cherries can be accented by a more colorful, glazed pot. Many like the subtle colors of Japanese mud pots or Chinese red clay pots for trees with green foliage, and blue, green, and white pots for tropical bonsai.

The shape and depth of the container should match the style of the bonsai. Whether oval, round, or rectangular, the pot should be deep enough to accommodate slanted trunks or branches, or cascade-style limbs that dip below the container’s edge.

Before buying your orchid, you should familiarize yourself with all the plant’s features; from orchids to buy to its pot up to the ways on how to maintain it. Preparing yourself with this knowledge may help you a lot. You will be able to decide immediately what kind of orchid you would want.

The first thing you should know when buying an orchid is that you should pick the mature blooming size plants. They can be more stable than the younger ones and may tolerate or be forgiving to mistakes especially from beginners. They may cost a little more but it will be worth it because it will give a good orchid experience.

Another is to buy orchids that will be suitable to the climate and condition where you live. It should be well-suited to you. For example, if you live in a hot climate place, tropical orchids are best for you since cooler growing orchids will not be able to keep themselves alive because they would dry out fast. There are different kinds of orchids for different kinds of environment or conditions.

The third way is to be honest with your conditions. Everything should be considered here. Sunlight, humidity, temperature and plotting should be highly considered. Orchids are not intended to be place on windowsills rather, in a proper environment. Most orchids are best suited in greenhouses. With time, patience, and experience, you will be able to create a descent environment for your orchids.

It is recommended to buy orchids from reputable growers. There is nothing wrong in buying your plant anywhere you want just as long as it is healthy and strong. You can buy them anywhere but if you are looking for the more exotic kinds of orchids, you may consider buying online. There are a lot of online suppliers selling different kinds of orchids who are ready to ship the plants to you. If you are a first timer in buying, purchase only small amounts to assess the quality of the plants. Be especially careful to those selling orchids for a very low price. They might be a fraud. Remember-you get what you pay for.

Lastly, keep in mind to choose your plants carefully. Healthy orchids have firm bulbs and leaves. The color of leaves may vary from green to light-green. Some may have spotted marks on its leaves but it’s natural for some kind. It should be firmly standing, not wobbly. The potting should be moist. If it is bone dry, choose another plant. Assurance of flower longevity can be seen if you are buying a blooming plant, choose the one with half of its flowers are open and the rest are in the bud. Lastly, do not be tempted to buy the plant with the most flowers if the rest of the plant is not healthy.

No doubt roses could make our garden very beautiful, they have been very famous all these years, aside from being attractive, rose smells good too. Roses are best to plant when spring is coming and when the soil is soft. However, roses are critical they required special care and treatment and cannot just be planted anywhere and anytime. Let us know some tips that might help us plant roses with so much achievement.

1. Roses are very delicate that need extra care. They need 4 to 6 hours of sunlight everyday, so It is best to plant your roses away from other plants and trees and barely expose them to sunlight. Also it prevents its roots to intertwined with other trees and plants that may strangle the growth. If you want to replace old roses with new ones make sure to remove roughly 1 ½ cubic feet of the old soil and put back new soil to give new roses a fresh growing.

2. Arrange your roses according to its variety. Ramblers and climbers should be placed along trellises, fences and next to pergolas or arches. This is very essential because these roses need a wide space for them to grow freely and these areas are the best for them to produce good blooms.

3. Roses are beautiful to look in island beds mixed with perennials. Make the smaller roses an edging plants to produce great combination to front from taller species. Dig the soil big enough for the size of the root ball, but do not forget to loosen the soil at the bottom part. If you have a bone meal, you can also place them covered with soil, this is a slow acting resource of phosphorus that promotes healthy growth for you roses.

4. Consider the depth in planting roses depending on the climate. In cooler places you need to plant the rose deeper, in a pot, dig about 1 inch deeper than the normal potted level.

5. Put the rose in a hole cautiously. Filled the hole with soil so the roots are covered well enough. Do not forget to water the rose, before making the finishing cover. Pile the soil 8 inches high around the base of the plant. This prevents the stem from dying out until the root has started growing. Later you can remove the excess soil when the plant starts growing already.

These are some essential tips to guide you in planting roses, following these would result to have a good bloom of roses, your efforts are worth enough.

Before you start growing grape vines, it is imperative to build a trellis system to support your vines.

Constructing a trellis

The trellis should be constructed with heavy treated posts. Light-weight trellises will give you nothing but trouble later on, so spend the time and money to build it the right way the first time.

End posts should be solid because they will carry the bulk of the weight. Treaded wooden posts, measuring 6 to 8 inches in diameter or a heavy gauge 4-inch metal pipe will work. Brace the end posts using a deadman, screw anchor, or H-end post brace.

A 9-foot end post should be set 3 feet into the ground with 6 feet sticking up to support the wires. Intermediate posts are set every 50 to 80 feet along the row to give extra support. Treated landscape timbers work well as intermediate posts. A 2 x 2 treated stake or metal T-post is placed at the location of each grape vine (every 8 feet).

High tension galvanized wire, size 9 to 13 gauge, is usually recommended. You will need 2 wires to support the grape vines and an optional wire to support the drip irrigation line. The irrigation wire should be hung at a height of 18 to 24 inches. The other two wires are hung at 4 feet and 6 feet. Once you have completed this step you may plant your vines. A similar structure can be built for muscadines, but the grapes should be planted 20 to 22 feet apart.

Training and Pruning

Vines should be purchased and planted during the dormant season (December through February). It is best to have the vineyard trellis already constructed and ready to go before planting the vines. Trim off any dead wood and damaged or diseased roots. Plant the vines in existing soil in a location with good drainage.

After planting, trim the vine back to 2 good, healthy buds and tie it to the stake. As the vines grow, the strongest shoot can be trained up the stake to become the main trunk.

At this point you must decide which training system you plan to use. There are two main systems in use today: the cordon system and the cane system.

Cordon System

As soon as the main trunk reaches the wire located at 4 feet above the ground, the tip should be pinched out to encourage branching. Remove any suckers that develop along the trunk and select two lateral shoots to train down the wire. These lateral shoots will become the permanent scaffolds for the life of the vine.

By the end of the fruit growing season, the main framework should be fairly developed. The lateral branches should be attached to the wire and trimmed back until they are 4 feet long. Any branches that may have developed on the laterals should be removed at this time.

During the second growing season, select only upright cordons, allow them to grow until the new growth can be attached to the top wire of the trellis. Any fruit that develops during the second season should be removed.

By the end of the second season, you should have completed the basic structure of the cordon system. Grapes produce their fruiting canes (cordons) from the healthy buds on last year’s wood. Each cane will produce about two clusters of grapes and an average healthy vine will only support 60 to 90 bunches. This means that each year, only 30 to 45 healthy buds should remain after pruning.

With the cordon system, you should prune the vines each year, usually in December. Select 15 to 22 upright cordons and prune them back to 2 buds. The grape spurs should be spaced 4 to 6 inches apart along the lateral branches. These grape spurs will support the next season’s fruiting canes. When you have finished pruning the vine, all that will remain in the main trunk, two 4-foot-long lateral branches, and 15 to 22 grape spurs with 2 buds each. Now the number of spurs will vary from year to year, based on the rate of growth. A very vigorous vine producing more than 4 feet of new growth can have a few more buds, while a vine producing less than 2 feet of growth should have less buds remaining after pruning. This same pruning system will be used throughout the life of the vine.

Cane System

The cordon system is the most common training system in use today, but some varieties produce better using the cane system. Begin the same way with the cane system as you would with the cordon system. When the vine reaches the bottom wire, it should be tipped to encourage branching. Select two lateral branches and train them down the wires. Attach the vines to the trellis with vineyard ties every foot or so. Tie a third upright shoot to the stake and train it toward the top wire. If it gets to the top wire, it too should be tipped and the 2 laterals should be trained down the top wire.

By the end of the first growing season, you will ideally have a main trunk to the top wire and 2 to 4 lateral branches. Everything else should be removed. The lateral branches can be cut back, leaving 12- to 18-inch stubs. Remember do not let the vines produce the second season.

The second year, allow the vines to grow but not to bear. In December, once the vine is dormant, select 4 strong arms or laterals and attach them to the wires. Near the main trunk, find a renewal cane and prune it back to 2 buds. These spurs will develop into replacement cane for the next season’s crop. The 4 laterals should be pruned back, leaving a total of 30 to 45 buds.

Once you have finished pruning the grapes, all that will remain is a main trunk, 4 renewal spurs, and 4 lateral canes with a total of 30 to 45 buds. As with the cordon system, the rate of growth determines how many buds remain after pruning. Each year, you should remove all but 4 of the new canes and 4 renewal spurs.

Trees absorb nutrients from the soil through their root systems. When potted, repeated watering can quickly wash these nutrients away. A bonsai tree requires consistent feeding with a fertilizer mix to replenish the nutritional content of its soil.

Plants require water and sunlight, along with carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen from the air to create the sugars they need to grow. They also require specific nutrients from the soil to be able to produce amino acids, vitamins, proteins, and enzymes. Most plant soils naturally have a mix of these nutrients, but some, even those called “bonsai soils” such as Japanese clay, can be lacking.

The three most important components of a balanced fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Bonsai food must contain a balanced mixture of these ingredients. Nitrogen is responsible for the size and amount of leaf and stem growth. It is also necessary for cell division, the manufacturing of protein and, even to some extent, the leaves’ green color. Phosphorus helps to stimulate cell division and encourages healthy root growth and bud development. Additionally, it protects against disease. Finally, potassium (usually in the form of potash for plants) helps flower and fruit production and also fights disease.

When you’re shopping for bonsai food, you don’t have to look for a special bonsai mix, but you do want fertilizer that is labeled N-P-K (K is potassium) in equal amounts such as 10-10-10, or 20-20-20, so you know it contains these essential elements. When in doubt about which fertilizer is right for your bonsai species, ask an expert at the nursery.

There are different ways to apply fertilizer. One option is to use solid pellets or small cakes of fishmeal or rapeseed. These are slow-release nutrient mixes, meaning you only have to feed your bonsai every few weeks, but they can encourage pests and are not pleasant looking. Most bonsai enthusiasts use soluble powders or liquid food applied to damp soil every other week or so or as directed on the fertilizer package.

Most bonsai should be fed throughout the early spring and summer during their regular growing season. When growth slows down in the autumn it is harder for them to absorb nutrients, so trees will only need feeding once a month. When deciduous trees lose all their leaves, you can stop feeding until spring; conifers will only need a few feedings over the winter. Tropical indoor bonsai trees can be fertilized all year round. It’s important to remember not to feed a tree immediately after repotting as this can damage the roots. The tree will need to be simply watered for at least a month before resuming feeding.

Always water your bonsai before fertilizing, and be careful not to overfeed. It is better to underfeed than to overfeed; if the nitrogen content of the compost in the pot becomes too high it will burn the roots. This will result in less growth, not more! Also, never feed a dormant or sick tree, as too many nutrients in the soil will cause problems.

Orchids are generally divided into three temperature groups, cool temperature orchids, intermediate temperature orchids, and warm temperature orchids. Being able to regulate the temperature of the growing environment is critical to proper orchid care. If you are have no experience caring for orchid plants, it would be best to choose an orchid that best matches the environment that you can easily provide.

Orchids require about a 15 degree temperature difference between nighttime lows and day time highs. Obviously in their natural environment this happens naturally. Orchids need this temperature variation in order to store food. During the day time the plant makes food through the process of photosynthesis and without a significant change in temperature at night the plant will use the food instead of storing it. If the orchid plant does not store food at night it will not have a sufficient supply to initiate flowering and regulate growth. So, if you are planning on growing orchids indoors you will have to overcome this obstacle.

In addition there should be a difference of about 20 degrees in temperature between day time high temperatures of winter and summer. The orchid plant needs this temperature variance to determine what season it is.

The largest of the three orchid temperature groups is the cool temperature orchids. Cymbidiums and ondontoglossums are two the largest orchid types in this temperature group. Optimally the nighttime low temperature for winter or summer should not drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The winter time high temperature should average about 68 degrees Fahrenheit and the summer time high temperature should not exceed 88 degrees Fahrenheit.

Intermediate temperature orchids include orchid types of cattleyas and paphiopedilums. Their minimum temperatures in both winter and summer should not be below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Day time temperature for winter should average about 68 degrees Fahrenheit and for summer time should not exceed 88 degrees Fahrenheit.

Warm temperature orchids include the most popular orchid type the phalaenopsis orchid. There is quit a difference in minimum temperature required between the intermediate and warm orchids. The minimum nighttime temperature in both winter and summer is 64 degrees Fahrenheit. The day time temperature for winter should average about 70 degrees Fahrenheit and for summer not exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

If the temperature is consistently below what is stated problems with mold and root rot can occur. On the other hand if the temperature is consistently higher than the temperature needed the orchid plant will become stressed and slow or stop growth. Orchids do not like to be cold and wet or hot and dry. Either will deter growth and flowering.

Growing a grape vine can be a hobby or a business. As a hobby, growing your own grapes can be very rewarding. It can also be a nice ornament that will enhance the beauty of your yard. As a business, you can make and sell jellies, candies, juices or wines with your harvest. Recently, more and more people are realizing that growing grape vines has many benefits. This has prompted them to learn how to grow the vines successfully. Here are the basic steps:

- Determining the ideal location to plant the vine is one of the most important factors to be considered. Proper irrigation and lots fo sunlight is a must for the area. The grape vine will not be able to grow well if the area is very wet or has clay like soil, which is very dense and will not allow the water to seep in. Another very important factor is to check the soil’s pH level. The pH level must be somewhere between 6.5 and 7.5. Nevertheless, asking your local agriculturist how to grow grapes successfully can be a big help.

- Growing a vine is no joke. You will need to give the vines care and attention. They need to be well watered, at least once a week. Ideally, the plant should not be allowed to bear fruit during it’s initial year. Controlling the first year of growth will allow the roots to grow strong and healthy. When needed, the grape clusters should be picked out. Sometimes a grow tube is used. This device acts as a guide in growing the grape vine as well as protecting it against animals. However, the grow tube will have to be removed after the first growing season so that the branches can harden.

- An effective pest control system will be very important. Grapes attract many insects, including one of the worst is the wasp. The wasps will destroy the fruits by breaking the skin and eating the flesh. The best way to protect your plant is by making wasp traps or by planting a rose bush close to the vines.

- Growing a vine includes a number of tasks, one of which is pruning the vine. Careful pruning can have a great impact on the amount of fruit and the growth of the vines. In order for the grape vines to grow productively they need to be pruned regularly. If not properly pruned, they will produce very little fruit in future seasons.

- Growing a good strong vine will required you to have knowledge of the weather conditions in your area. You will need more protection from the winter weather than you would need from the sun and too much heat. Growers have found many innovative ways to deal with this. One way is by using a cover crop, which insulates the vines against the cold. Also, covering the ground with hay will help to insulate the trunk.

Beginners who are just starting to learn the process of growing a grape vine may be able to find more help from agriculturists or local growers. These professionals will be able to give you the needed information on how to grow quality grape vines.